Soft Contouring with Bronzers
Chiseled Out. Soft Sculpt In.
In my lifetime, the OG of contouring was Way Bandy. I was fortunate to get ahold of his books when I was just 12 years old (how I did that without the internet is beyond me). Then came along the master of makeup, Kevyn Aucoin, whom I was fortunate to assist for many years when I landed in NYC; that’s a story for another time.
Kevyn’s talents far preceded the heavy-handed contour look, and I was fortunate to learn the craft of contour from the master. I much prefer a softer sculpt over the hard lines of contouring that we’ve been seeing for what seems like a decade on Kim K’s iconic Instagram.
While a severe contour has its place in editorial work, I’m happy to see this technique take a softer turn with soft contouring. I think soft contouring is a great way to highlight your best features. It gives a natural warmth without looking overdone, and with practice, is easy to do. I’m a fan of makeup that isn’t noticeable from a mile away and soft contouring allows you to achieve natural dimension without the hardlines.
I Missed the Memo. What is a Soft Contour?
Before we jump into our favorite ways to achieve a soft contour, it might be helpful to explain what “real” contour looks like. Contouring with matte products creates a real shadow on the face. The products used for severe contouring tend to be grey-ish in tone, absorbing, rather than reflecting, light. Using matte contour products truly creates the illusion of dimension on the face.
A soft contour is less extreme, and the best way to achieve this look is by using a bronzer. Unlike products specifically crafted for contour which are matte, bronzers are warm and often have a shimmer, usually a golden pearl. Both a cream and powder bronzer would work equally well to create a soft contour look. It’s truly a personal preference whether to go with the cream or powder. If you’re unsure which you prefer, try a powder bronzer if your skin tends to be oily and a cream bronzer if you have dryer skin. Personally, I often use a bit of both.
Soft contouring highlights your best features and gives your face dimension. Using a soft shimmering bronzer, it’s applied to the forehead, temples, cheekbones, and jawline to add depth and shape to the face.
Soft contouring creates a subtle illusion of shadow on the face.
How to Choose the Right Bronzer for Soft Contouring
When using bronzers to softly sculpt the face it is important to pick one that is not loaded with heavy pearl or shimmer. You want the majority of the shade to be matte with just a hint of shimmer. This allows there to be both an illusion of highlight and depth to the area in which it is applied. For a golden bronze look, I turn to RMS Beauty’s Buriti Bronzer and Tower 28’s Bronzino Illuminating Bronzer in Gold Coast. Both are balmy cream bronzers that give skin a dewy, sun-kissed glow. If you’re more into powder bronzers, I recommend The Sun Show Glowy Warmth Bronzer in Beachy from Kosas. This formula offers a soft warmth and subtle definition to the face with a delicate sheen.
Bronze and Blend!
When applying bronzer, I like to start with a clean and moisturized face. I like to apply the bronzer with a brush to the hollows of the cheeks (the area under your cheekbones, a bit higher if you wish to “lift” your face), under your jawline, and along each side of the nose. This balances out any facial asymmetry and sort of “frames” the face. My favorite brushes of the moment are from ANISA. The ANISA Crescent Contour Brush has a natural curve that graces the curves of the face, giving a more precise application especially when contouring the hollows of the cheeks and jawline. The ANISA Buffing Bronzer Brush is for overall blending and helps to put the “soft” in soft contouring.
Next, I like to apply bronzer in small circular motions, especially around the temples (the edge where hair meets the forehead). Blend well so that there are no harsh lines visible when looking at yourself straight on, in front of a mirror.
How to Apply Bronzer
When not wearing much foundation or applying to bare skin both creams and powders work well. Just remember if applying powder bronzers over foundation you will need to lightly dust the foundation with powder to avoid the look of blotchiness. I then like to follow over with a bit of cream bronzer if not wearing blush so they melt into the skin. This “marrying” technique is best applied with a sponge or a brush.
Contouring Recap
Soft contouring is a great way to showcase your best facial features. It can add tone to your face and better define the cheekbones and jawline. The next time you’re applying your makeup, forgo the heavy look of traditional contouring and opt for a softer sculpted look instead!
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