How to Tame Your Brows
“Brows frame the eyes. When your brows are done, you look awake, polished, and pulled together.” –Christy
It’s no secret that eyebrows are a defining feature of the face. From thin to bushy, arched to straight, and everything in between, eyebrows can make or break your overall look. Having well-groomed eyebrows can make a huge difference in the overall look of your face.
When done right, eyebrows can accentuate your features and give you an instantly polished appearance. But, when done wrong, they can make you look unkempt or even worse–angry or overly surprised! So how do you get your eyebrows to look their best? Here’s my tried and true guide to taming and framing your eyebrows and the pencils, gels, and techniques I’ve used on some famous faces over the years.
Get in Shape!
Once you’ve determined where your brows should start and end, it’s time to decide what shape they should take. If you’re unsure which shape will suit your face best, follow your natural eyebrow shape. If you’re looking to define the shape of your eyebrows, follow these steps:
To find out where your brow should begin (point A), align the flat edge of a straight makeup brush to the outside of your nose/inner corner of your eye.
Your true arch (point B) is found by taking your brush and laying it diagonally from your nostril to the outside edge of your iris.
Determine where your brow should end (point C) by using your brush to create a line from the outside corner of your nose diagonally to the outside corner of your eye.
Keep in mind that no two faces are exactly alike–even if they look similar at first glance. Each person has small differences that make each face unique. If you’re not sure what shape suits you best, start by using a white eyeliner pencil and a stencil and trace out various shapes in order to determine your ideal eyebrow shape.
Brush and Prep
If you are happy with your brow shape, then brush them with a brow comb or spoolie before applying any brow product. This step identifies any gaps that may need filling in and smoothes the brow hairs for easy product application. Many brow pencils have a dual side brush or comb. Patrick Ta has a fabulous dual ended brush features a spoolie to tame any stray hairs and an angled ended that allows for precise placement of your favorite brow powder such as RMS Beauty’s Back2Brow Powder. Think about brushing your brows as the first and last step, unless you are using a gel to hold brows in place.
Pencil Me In!
Once you have a general idea of where your brows should be, it’s time to start filling them in. Use a pencil that matches your hair color and apply it with short strokes. Once the pencil is applied, use a spoolie–the small pipe cleaner-like brush on the end of most brow pencils–to smooth out any stray hairs that may have gotten away from you while drawing them on, as well as blending your chosen shade onto the skin.
If you have thin brows, my absolute favorite pencil is the Kimoko Superfine Eyebrow pencil. Its fine tip allows you to create super fine hair-like strokes for a natural look.
Westman Atelier’s Bonne Brow Defining Pencil is a double-sided product. The spoolie is almost like a mascara wand so it’s a great option for those with thicker brows.
Remember I shared that your brow pencil should match your hair color? Well, Kosas has got you covered. From an array of blonde, brunette, auburn, and even grey shades, the Kosas Brow Pop Dual-Action Defining Pencil makes color matching easy. Plus, the formula has castor oil which aids in hair growth.
If your eyebrows are sparse or oddly shaped, fill in any sparse areas with darker-toned pencil or brow powder applied with an angled brow brush.
It’s a known fact that as we get older, our brows start to thin out leaving you looking tired and in need of rest so filling in those brows will lift and ground your face looking as if you had a full night’s rest.
Gel ‘Em Down
Set your eyebrows with some eyebrow gel. If you are blessed with Brooke Shields-esqe brows, a pencil might not be needed. Opt for a brow gel instead. For those who’d rather forgo any pigment and simply want a clear gel, I recommend the Kosas Air Brow Clear Lifting Treatment Gel. Their clean formula offers a flexible hold that lasts all day. The Ilia In-Frame Brow Gel is great to have in your gym or travel bag. It’s great to sculpt and set your brows, and will last all day. Lastly, if you are blessed with luscious eyebrows and you simply want to find a gel that matches your hair color, look no further than the Kosas Air Brow Tinted Volumizing Treatment Gel. It comes in ten rich colors and has a smooth mousse-like consistency which makes for an easy application.
Another trick I’ve used on shoots to amp up brow volume is backcombing. Backcombing is a technique for fuller brows that involves brushing them against their natural growth pattern. When using a brow gel, this method coats the underside of the hair follicles. Backcombing adds a bit of texture to the brows and the gel helps to set the hairs in place. For my clients with less than bushy brows, backcombing is my go-to trick that adds instant volume.
Eyebrow Recap
Eyebrows are an important part of your face. They frame your eyes and give your face a more expressive look. For sparse brows or to extend your brows, go with a pencil. If you have full brows that are unruly or just want a little pick-me-up, go for brow gel.
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